Weather really determines a vintage. Each year we are fortunate to work with the same team on the same soil and plant material, although the vines are a year more mature. But the amount and timing of rainfall and the temperature really determine what we do, because our vineyard practices are tools to equalize or mitigate the effects of weather with the goal of the wine we want to make in mind.

Last month, January 2007, brought the lowest rainfall in three decades. As a result, our pruning progressed very rapidly this year. Productivity was up from a normal rate of 35 to 40 vines per pruner each hour to about 55 vines. While the sunshine may have created positive attitudes, the absence of a pound of muddy clay on each boot undoubtedly contributes to greater efficiency as well.

The last two years have been pretty wet, so although we’ve had less rain than last year and are below average, the soils are pretty full. I think we have enough water. Things are beginning to warm up, so we have to finish tying canes to wires.

We’ve also experienced unusually cold weather this winter. Now, with bud break apparently not far away, comes the fear of frost. Our cover crops are not very high yet, but I want to start mowing to get air flow for frost protection.

In the cellar, Kenneth tells me that our MLs — malolactic fermentations (conversion from stronger malic acid, found in apples, to softer lactic acid, found in milk) — have just finished, having dragged out as in Burgundy. In 2004, an early vintage, we were so early into barrel, in September, and it was just the opposite in 2006. The MLs are slower as well, but that’s not a bad thing because a certain creaminess or textural richness comes out in the wine.

Finally, I have to express how green and beautiful it is in Carneros with spring arriving. Life is growing all around, and like childbirth, it puts us in awe. Everywhere there are buds and blossoms, amazing fields of mustard, and tiny lambs. The bright, blue sky and vivid greens and yellows all around us really lift our spirits.

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