Anne Moller-Racke Kenneth Juhasz
grapes
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Moving Beyond Pinot Noir?

Nabor CamarenaA few months ago, I made a difficult decision – to leave The Donum Estate and work as vineyard manager for Larkmead Vineyards in the upper Napa Valley. Anne has invited me to discuss my reasons for this decision and report on my new job.

I did not make my decision to get a better job, but to make a change. After farming for over a quarter of a century in Carneros, I have accomplished my mission here. I always had a dream to farm in Napa Valley as well. Now preparation and opportunity have come together, and I can learn the differences between Carneros and Napa.

The vineyards are located a few miles south of Calistoga in a narrow portion of the valley between Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail. I can see Mt. St. Helena and the white-washed walls of Sterling Winery on a hilltop as I work. The soil is drier than Carneros and there is less vegetation. I visited Donum last Saturday, and they haven’t disked yet. We are disking in Napa, and the soil is already dry.

Of course, the big difference is that I’m growing Cabernet Sauvignon instead of Pinot Noir. Someone remarked to me that now I’m growing the king of wine grapes. And I told him that I had already farmed the queen. When I started working with Pinot Noir, I thought that if I can do this, I can do everything else. Now I realize how valuable my experience is.

I now farm a bigger vineyard with more people and challenges, but I’m comfortable and I trust my experience. It’s a new and exciting venture, but I’m not nervous. I know what to do.  I spent 16 years farming for Larry Hyde and another decade with Anne Moller-Racke. What’s the main thing of value that I learned from them? Very simply, it’s to take care. Paying attention to detail is the best way to farm. It’s important to be self-critical and to do a good job from my own point of view.

I was talking to the owner of Larkmead about an agreement. I told him, “The vineyard is mine, but you can have the grapes.” We laughed about it, but this is my way. I want to farm like the vineyard is my own.

For me, working at Donum emphasized the importance of building a good team to accomplish what is needed in the vineyard. The team communicates knowledge and experience into action. The newest employee, the lowest guy on the organizational chart, is the most important because he is doing the work.

I’ve been listening to our new president. Obama says that we have to pursue excellence, that nothing is easy, but that yes, we can succeed. If one man can do it, we all can do it. It means I can do it well, too.

Donum will be part of my heart forever. I felt that it was my project, too. I was responsible for my area, and with Anne, Kenneth and the whole team, we created success. I feel I can put a big check mark by Donum and I am ready for the next challenge.

My new job is not better – it’s different. Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, and its sister Bordeaux varieties, are totally different. I have been welcomed by my friends in Napa Valley, and I have a new team. I tell my people, “I will take care of your job, but you must take care of my job.”

Everyone has a task. The other day we were repairing a mower. A drive shaft runs from the power-take-off to a gearbox, and then another shaft comes out and operates the blades. I pointed out to them that if one part of this assembly doesn’t work, nothing else works. So that’s the exciting part of this new project for me – getting everyone to work well together.

 

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