After my last posting, I was asked what sites and soils do I prefer for Pinot Noir. The Ferguson 4A01 and the Donum 490 blocks are grand cru sites for us. While 490 has pretty dense, heavy, water-retaining clay that is almost dry farmed, 4A01 is on lighter, more gravelly soil.

I prefer the lighter soil over the heavier clay because it’s easier. I can measure water use to manipulate the vines. I have less control in clay because cover crops can only take away so much water and nutrients, and rainfall varies from winter to winter.

As for terrain, normally I’d say I prefer a slope for water drainage. A slope naturally creates more diversity, even within a row, because the soil and water content varies on the top, middle and bottom. You can achieve more homogeneity on the flats. It depends upon whether you want your chorus to sing one pure, strong note or a more complex harmony.

Incidentally, 4A01 is fairly flat but well-drained whereas 490 lies on a warm western slope.

Ferguson 4A01 block works for us because it has good plant material (old Martini clone on St. George rootstock) and self-limiting vine age (30 years). We understand how to farm it.

Donum 490 vines are younger (17 years) and the thick-skinned Roederer clone needs more heat to ripen, almost like Syrah, so that hillside western exposure is beneficial. The clay soils produce more vegetative growth, so we open up the canopies more. Irrigation becomes a tool only later in the season when the soil finally dries up.

Certainly, terroir consists of the land and its climate. It’s arguable whether plant material choices, farming and even winemaking philosophies are part of terroir, because they can also over-power the potential of the site. As Kenneth says, people tend to “interpret” terroir. And that can bring it forth or erase it.

For me, ideal terroir is balanced. Occasionally, it happens naturally, and that is something very special. Most times even very good sites require some manipulation and trial and error to bring them into balance. The challenge for us is to balance the vineyard without overlaying its individual character, its terroir.

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