So far, 2010 has been a very “cool” vintage – in at least two senses of that adjective. The relatively low temperatures are not at all bad. Mildew pressure may be greater, but the vines really like the air conditioning. Often we are “socked in” with morning fog, but it usually burns off before noon and the sun breaks through, providing ample energy for photosynthesis.

Because conditions were not ideal for setting a big crop during bloom, we have significant shatter and loose clusters. Without the demand of a large fruit set, the vines look very lush and are thriving, with shoot tips still active. And with lower ambient temperatures, water demand is lessened as well.

So far we’ve had no real heat spikes, just a warm weekend during the second week of June. Last year at this time, we had color in the vineyard after a heat spike earlier in July. … More…

In my last post, I wrote that working with the terroir of a vineyard site is like being handed the keys to a new BMW. How do you drive it?  A writer friend of mine reminded me that I hadn’t answered that question yet, so we sat down for a little question and answer session, which follows:

What is your definition of terroir?

Simply put, it’s all of the physical characteristics of a site. That includes soil, climate (including rainfall, wind and fog) and elements of topography like elevation, slope and exposure. Beyond those physical features, of course, your farming philosophy will also come into play.

What makes a potential vineyard site look promising?

Let’s assume you are in a cool climate region like Carneros appropriate for growing Pinot Noir.  When considering bare ground for a vineyard, you need a clear picture in mind of what constitutes a good vineyard, which, of course, … More…

After my last posting, I was asked what sites and soils do I prefer for Pinot Noir. The Ferguson 4A01 and the Donum 490 blocks are grand cru sites for us. While 490 has pretty dense, heavy, water-retaining clay that is almost dry farmed, 4A01 is on lighter, more gravelly soil.

I prefer the lighter soil over the heavier clay because it’s easier. I can measure water use to manipulate the vines. I have less control in clay because cover crops can only take away so much water and nutrients, and rainfall varies from winter to winter.

As for terrain, normally I’d say I prefer a slope for water drainage. A slope naturally creates more diversity, even within a row, because the soil and water content varies on the top, middle and … More…

Like Kenneth, I am wary of absolutes. We like to simplify and uncomplicate a system like the vineyard so people can more easily understand it. But then we forget it has been simplified, and people assume it’s simple. The best we can do is try to identify some principals behind what is a complicated matter.

There are several ways to define terroir. The site, or place, consists of the ground and the climate. Let’s include features like elevation and exposure in the general category of soil. Then we include elements such as temperature, rainfall, fog and wind under climate. That’s what nature gives us.

We must deal with the soil’s water-holding capacity, because the ability to provide just enough water when needed is a vital viticultural tool. And the land must be … More…

We hear a lot about terroir these days. In my humble view, the vineyard site produces terroir, which is the unique quality of that specific place. Terroir shows itself in wine, certainly in Pinot Noir, but you can over-ride it.

You can create wines from one place that seem like they are from any place.
Usually in warm vintages, very ripe grapes are the biggest culprit. For example, the 2003 Burgundies all taste very much the same.

To capture terroir, that has to be your goal. Often, at 26 degrees Brix and above, you will lose it. By cranking up the sugars and ripeness, you can negate the effects both of vintage and terroir.

Yes, I think soil is the major contributor to terroir (although terrain and climate play large roles as well), but … More…