This is a big week for us, the big payoff for the year. We’ve had great weather and the fruit is beautiful.

The Calera Pinot Noir selection did come around in flavor intensity, and it was worth the wait. It came off yesterday, with sugar in the low 24 degrees Brix (approximate percentage of sugar) range.

We had a little bit of rain yesterday, too minor to do much, a drizzle more like a heavy dew. It may have softened the skins a little, so we’re ready to harvest the Donum block that we were waiting for today. All the Pinot Noir should come off this week, and we’ll probably take in our Chardonnay early next week.

Normally our vineyards ripen and are harvested in order of … More…

We had a few days that exceeded the 100-degree mark around the Fourth of July, but other than that, this summer has been consistently cool as we approach 50% veraison (softening, coloring of berries). The vines look beautiful and we’re just cruising along at this point.

Someone asked me a good question the other day – how do we determine the size and shape of vineyard blocks?

The short answer is that we try to establish “like units” of ground that can be farmed similarly and efficiently. Of course, there are obvious determinants like topography. But for me, everything starts with the soil. You can always add to the soil, but you can’t take away from it. So the first and best way for me to divide a vineyard site into smaller units is to consider how the soil will impact water use.

Different sub-soils can translate to major site … More…

After my last posting, I was asked what sites and soils do I prefer for Pinot Noir. The Ferguson 4A01 and the Donum 490 blocks are grand cru sites for us. While 490 has pretty dense, heavy, water-retaining clay that is almost dry farmed, 4A01 is on lighter, more gravelly soil.

I prefer the lighter soil over the heavier clay because it’s easier. I can measure water use to manipulate the vines. I have less control in clay because cover crops can only take away so much water and nutrients, and rainfall varies from winter to winter.

As for terrain, normally I’d say I prefer a slope for water drainage. A slope naturally creates more diversity, even within a row, because the soil and water content varies on the top, middle and … More…

Like Kenneth, I am wary of absolutes. We like to simplify and uncomplicate a system like the vineyard so people can more easily understand it. But then we forget it has been simplified, and people assume it’s simple. The best we can do is try to identify some principals behind what is a complicated matter.

There are several ways to define terroir. The site, or place, consists of the ground and the climate. Let’s include features like elevation and exposure in the general category of soil. Then we include elements such as temperature, rainfall, fog and wind under climate. That’s what nature gives us.

We must deal with the soil’s water-holding capacity, because the ability to provide just enough water when needed is a vital viticultural tool. And the land must be … More…

We hear a lot about terroir these days. In my humble view, the vineyard site produces terroir, which is the unique quality of that specific place. Terroir shows itself in wine, certainly in Pinot Noir, but you can over-ride it.

You can create wines from one place that seem like they are from any place.
Usually in warm vintages, very ripe grapes are the biggest culprit. For example, the 2003 Burgundies all taste very much the same.

To capture terroir, that has to be your goal. Often, at 26 degrees Brix and above, you will lose it. By cranking up the sugars and ripeness, you can negate the effects both of vintage and terroir.

Yes, I think soil is the major contributor to terroir (although terrain and climate play large roles as well), but … More…